In the Ethiopian Orthodox calendar saints
days reoccur every month - for example St Michael's day (Mikael) comes
on the 12th of each Ethiopian month. On such days a special mass will
be said in the appropriate churches, either in the morning or on fasting
days in the middle of the day. Most major saints have a bi-annual day
(some an annual or even tri-annual day), for example Asteryo Mariam
(St Mary) and Sebareatsemu Giyorgis (St George) in late January. Such
days are effectively a mini festival. Sometimes there is much to see
- for example the Tabots (replica of the tablets of stone held
in the Ark of Covenant) are paraded and maybe traditional horse competitions
(gooks - a kind of Ethiopian joust) are held.
One of the main festivals in the Ethiopian
year is Timkat (often confusingly called Ethiopian Epiphany -
see the information box at the bottom of the page) which falls on the
19th of January in most years - but on the 20th in 2008. This commemorates
the baptism of Jesus by John and begins on Timkat Eve (Timkat wazima)-
with Tabots being joyfully paraded and taken down to a special
place where they will camp for the night. The followers from that church
will accompany the procession sometimes with dancing and singing. The
priests dress in their best garments and the tabots are shaded by brocade
umbrellas.
In Meket the night is spent drinking local
beer (Kurefi) and dancing to the big drums (Kabero). Next
morning -Timkat itself- a special mass is said, water is blessed and
the splashing begins. This is most famous at Gondar with people jumping
into the Fasilidas baths but it is full of tourists. A genuine and intimate
version of the events can be seen with the Meket communities
who are more than happy to have a few guests join their celebration.
Once the water festivities are done the tabots are processed back to
their church - all except Mikael whose holy day is the next day and
so gets to be joyfuly processed back on the day after Timkat. The day
following Timkat is also called Kana Zagalila commemorating Jesus turning
water into wine at the wedding in Cana.
The other festivals celebrated most are New
Year (or Enkutatash) (11th September, but the 12th in 2007),
Easter (or Fasika) the same date as all other Orthodox
churches - a date that moves, and Meskel - the Finding of the
True Cross (28th September).
Christmas (Guna) is probably
less celebrated than the other - celebrated on the 7th January. It is
however the catalyst of a major pilgrimage to Lalibela with upwards
of 20,000 pilgrims decending on the town on foot across the countryside
over the days leading up to Guna. The pilgrims mostly sleep outside
the church compound wrapped in gabbis (cotton shawls) prior to
the ceremony that starts before dawn on Christmas morning.